Lansing Spatech stocks one of the region's largest parts inventories.  If we don't have your part in stock, we will get your spa running and priority ship the part.

                                  

You can also follow our service updates at our hot tub forum.

 

Additional information is available at our 

     other site as well.

  spa pump, spa heater, jet pump, troubleshooting

 

 

 

Spring Cleaning

Spring is a great time to drain and clean your spa.  After emptying the entire spa, suck all remaining water up with a wet-dry vac.  Next, be certain to remove all of the water from the lines as well.  Clean and polish the entire shell to bring back that factory new feel.  Double check the equipment for leaks and make certain that your ozonator is working properly. You're ready for another great season of hot tub use!

 

When was your last equipment check?

All too often minor issues go undiagnosed which lead to major repairs.  Simple problems such as leaking pump seals can lead to complete pump and motor replacement if left too long.

 

Is your ozonator working properly?  The ozonator is the spa's on-board sanitation system.  If your water appears cloudy or you're going through a considerably larger amount of chlorine, then your ozonator has likely failed.  Ozone is a healthier and cleaner alternative to high doses of chlorine.

 

Is your cover getting heavy?  If so, it's absorbing water.  As a cover takes on water it becomes less and less efficient.  Although they are expensive to replace, the energy savings makes up for a good deal of that cost.

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Chemicals that must be used:

1. The first chemical is Stain & Scale.  Stain & Scale is a sequestering agent that is used to prevent scaling on the shell, heater and other components.  Even if you don't experience scaling on the hot tub shell, 2 ounces of Stain and Scale per week should still be used to protect the hot tub equipment. 
2. The next chemical is Alkalinity Up.  Alkalinity is the stabilizer for the pH.  Alkalinity should be kept between 80-100 PPM (parts per miilion).  If you have well water, your alkalinity may be fine.  Most city water supplies have extremely low alkalinty levels.  Use Alkalinity Up to raise the alkalinity.  Add 2 tablespoons at a time and wait 30 minutes between tests.  You will notice that the pH level increase simultaneously with the alkalinity level.  Don't use Alkalinity Up to adjust pH as this will cause the alkalinity level to go above the ideal level. 
3. The next chemical is pH up.  pH is the stabilizer for the sanitizer.  With the alkalinity stabilized, the pH won't tend to bouce very much, but pH up will be necessary to maintain proper pH levels.  pH should be maintained at a level of 7.6. 
4. The final essential chemical is the sanitizer.  Chlorine or bromine can be used to properly sanitize your hot tub.  Sanitizer levels should be maintained between 3-5 PPM.  Sanitizer levels should be tested prior to use.  If levels are too low, add sanitizer and wait to use the hot tub.  Chlorine (sodium dichlor) comes in granular form and should be added every 1-2 days.  Chlorine should be added following spa use at a rate of 1 heaping teaspoon per person (up to 4).  Bromine tabs should be added at a rate of 2-3 tablets every 3-4 days.  Levels should be tested before use.  If low, add chlorine and wait to use the spa.  Regardless of which sanitizer you are using, 4 teaspoons of chlorine should be added one day per week to shock the water.  After shocking, leave the cover open for 20 minutes to allow the gases to escape.

 

Optional Chemicals: 

1. The first optionsl chemical is Water Clarifier.  Water Clarifier is a coagulant that is used to clear water.  It works by binding small particles together making them large enough for the filter to catch.  No more than 1 ounce of Water Clarifier should be used per week.  Excessive use will cloud the water. 
2. The next optional chemical is Scum Out.  Scum Out is an enzyme which reduces body oils in the hot tub water.  No more than 1 ounce of Scum Out should be used per week. 
3. The next optional chemical is Foam Gone.  Foam Gone is used to reduce foaming when soap is introduced into the hot tub.  Foam Gone doesn't remove the soap, it siply changes the water tension so that bubbles can't form.  Foam Gone should only be used in very small doses.  The real solution for soap conditions is to drain, clean, and refill the spa.

 hot tub, hot tubs, hottub, hottubs, Springfield, Hartford, Northampton, Amherst, Greenfield, MA, CT

 

 

 

Chemical Balance

 

It is very important to balance hot tub chemicals at least once per week. Many equipment problems can be avoided simply be maintaining water quality. Alkalinity stabilizes the pH, which in turn, stabilizes the sanitizer. Water that is left with improper pH for extended periods becomes aggressive and ruins components. The seals on the pump, the seals on the heater, and the shell surface are all affected by water quality. Proper balance can be the difference between a heater that lasts for 10 years and a heater that only lasts 2 years.

 

 

Winter emergencies

 

From time to time, emergency conditions will occur in the winter months. The most frequent problem is a lack of power to the spa. This can be caused by bad breakers, components tripping the ground fault, or blown fuses and circuits in the controls. In the event that a service technician can't respond quickly enough to prevent the pipes from freezing or in the event that the spa is already iced up, the following action should be taken. Place a sump pump with a rating of at least 1/4 horsepower in the spa, without a hose attached, and plug it in. The circulating water will prevent freezing. In addition, the waste heat created by the sump pump will begin to add heat back in to the water. This also works great in a situation where power is out and the house is being run on a generator. If you don't already own a sump pump, call us for pricing and details.

 

Defrosting Frozen Hot Tubs

 

Due to a number of recent accidents, I find it necessary to address the topic of defrosting frozen hot tubs. Frozen hot tubs must be thawed slowly. Ideally, a sump pump is placed in the water without a hose, and allowed to circulate for a week or so to warm the water. This prevents additional damage from occuring due to expansion. The use of high heat sources can cause steam to build in a single location. The steam has nowhere to go due to the ice on the sides of it. The pipe is forced to explode in order to relieve the pressure. These explosions can be extremely dangerous, even fatal. If your spa is frozen, don't turn on the breaker. If the flow switch, which recognizes flow from the pump, is frozen in the closed position, the heater will be activated. If the heater is activated in a frozen line, it will explode just like a super heated section of pipe. The slow thaw method must be used to clear the ice from the lines and prevent any additional damage or injury from occuring.

 

 

No Heat In The Hot Tub

 

You've just walked out to get in your spa and found that it has lost temperature.  There are several things that you can check prior to having a technician come out.  First, is the heat indicator on?  If the heat indicator is on and the temperature is dropping, there is likely a condition ehich requires a technician.  If the indicator is not on, the next thing to check is the flow from the pump that is responsible for pushing water through the heater.  This might be a circulation pump or a two speed primary pump.  If the flow appears to be good and there is no heat, a technician is likely needed.   If the flow appears reduced, turn off the power and remove the filter and any floating debris.  Turn the power back on without the filter in and check the flow.  If the flow is better and the heat is on, clean the filter.  If the flow is still low, check for proper water level.  Low water level can cause pump cavitation which will prevent the spa from heating.  In the end, if none of these check out, it is time to have a technician come out and look for blockage in the system, failure of a component, or issues with a sensor.

 

Why a Full Foam Hot Tub?

 

A full foam hot tub is essential for outdoor use in the Northeast.  This is not to say that blanket-style insulation is not efficient.  The thing to consider is what happens if the power goes out.  The full foam insulates pipes and provides support.  Blanket insulation uses the heat genrated by the running pumps to keep the pipes warm.  Both systems can be very energy efficient when operating.  If the power to the unit should go out, the differences become very evident.  Full foamed spas have the ability to last for five to six days without power.  Blanket insulated spas will begin losing their heat rapidly once the pumps shut off.  The lack of insulation does make them easy to replumb, but replumbing a spa is very cost prohibitive.  In the ever-changing New England environment, it is important to choose a spa with full foam insulation.

 

 

What Makes a Hot Tub Cover "Good"?

 

A good hot tub cover will have a multitude of aspects that, when combined, make it ideal.  Having one or two of these qualities is better than none, but having them all can make hot tub operation easier and less expensive.  The first thing to look for is high density foam (at least 2 ponds).  Next, the cover should have a full-length heat seal to reduce heat loss.  Double wrapped cores are essential to prolong cover life.  Proper fit is essential for energy efficiency.  A cover can be slightly larger than the tub, but should never be smaller than the outer rim.  Smaller cavers tend to sit up on the skirt which lifts them off of the shell and renders them virtually useless in terms of energy conservation.  Finally, using the right lifter really makes a cover easier to manage and helps prolong the lifespan.

 

Winterizing a Hot Tub

 

Every spring we receive a large number of calls from customers who winterized their own spas and have freeze fractures as a result.  Winterizing a spa is a very involved process, far more so than even a pool, and must be done properly to avoid the type of damage that can result in the disposal of the hot tub.  The cost to winterize a hot tub is $199 plus state tax.  This is fraction of the cost to repair even a minor freeze fracture.  Please call us, regardless of your brand of hot tub, to winterize your  spa instead of attempting it yourself.

 

 

 

Hot tub chemicals

 

We have found that many customers have a variety of questions in regard to hot tub chemical usage.  There are several chemcials which are essential to proper water chemistry and many that are optional. 

 

Essential Chemicals:

• The first chemcial is Stain & Scale.  Stain & Scale is a sequestering agent that is used to prevent scaling on the shell, heater and other components.  Even if you don't experience scaling on the hot tub shell, 2 ounces of Stain and Scale per week should still be used to protect the hot tub equipment. 
• The next chemical is Alkalinity Up.  Alkalinity is the stabilizer for the pH.  Alkalinity should be kept between 80-100 PPM (parts per miilion).  If you have well water, your alkalinity may be fine.  Most city water supplies have extremely low alkalinty levels.  Use Alkalinity Up to raise the alkalinity.  Add 2 tablespoons at a time and wait 30 minutes between tests.  You will notice that the pH level increase simultaneously with the alkalinity level.  Don't use Alkalinity Up to adjust pH as this will cause the alkalinity level to go above the ideal level. 
• The next chemical is pH up.  pH is the stabilizer for the sanitizer.  With the alkalinity stabilized, the pH won't tend to bouce very much, but pH up will be necessary to maintain proper pH levels.  pH should be maintained at a level of 7.6. 
• The final essential chemical is the sanitizer.  Chlorine or bromine can be used to properly sanitize your hot tub.  Sanitizer levels should be maintained between 3-5 PPM.  Sanitizer levels should be tested prior to use.  If levels are too low, add sanitizer and wait to use the hot tub.  Chlorine (sodium dichlor) comes in granular form and should be added every 1-2 days.  Chlorine should be added following spa use at a rate of 1 heaping teaspoon per person (up to 4).  Bromine tabs should be added at a rate of 2-3 tablets every 3-4 days.  Levels should be tested before use.  If low, add chlorine and wait to use the spa.  Regardless of which sanitizer you are using, 4 teaspoons of chlorine should be added one day per week to shock the water.  After shocking, leave the cover open for 20 minutes to allow the gases to escape.

 

Optional Chemicals: 

• The first optionsl chemical is Water Clarifier.  Water Clarifier is a coagulant that is used to clear water.  It works by binding small particles together making them large enough for the filter to catch.  No more than 1 ounce of Water Clarifier should be used per week.  Excessive use will cloud the water. 
• The next optional chemical is Scum Out.  Scum Out is an enzyme which reduces body oils in the hot tub water.  No more than 1 ounce of Scum Out should be used per week. 
• The next optional chemical is Foam Gone.  Foam Gone is used to reduce foaming when soap is introduced into the hot tub.  Foam Gone doesn't remove the soap, it siply changes the water tension so that bubbles can't form.  Foam Gone should only be used in very small doses.  The real solution for soap conditions is to drain, clean, and refill the spa.

 

 

Hot tub breaker tripping in cold weather

 

If your breaker is tripping in the winter it is very important to take immediate action.  Place a call to our service line.  Purchse a sump pump (1/4 horsepower) and place it in the spa without a hose attached and plug it in.  Wait several hours and try to reset the breaker.  Note that GFCI breakers require that you turn them completely off prior to resetting.  If the breaker fails to reset, schedule a service call to resolve the issue.

Spas and hot tubs with no power in cold weather

If your spa or hot tub is not operating in cold weather (below 25F) it is important to take measures to protect the spa.  The most important thing that you can do is to put a sump pump in the spa.  Use a 1/4 horsepower or larger sump pump.  Place the pump in the center of the spa.  Do not attach a hose.  Plug the pump in and allow the pump to recirculate the water within the spa.  The efficiency of sump pumps causes them to radiate heat.  By running the sump pump continuously, you will begin adding heat back into the spa water.  This heat will radiate outward and keep the insulated pipes warm until a technician can get to the spa for repair.

Sequestering Agents 

Hot tub owners frequently ask if they really need to use products such as stain and metal controllers. The simple answer is yes. These agents are designed to protect the spa shell, the heater, and the additional components. Failure to use these products can result in heavy mineral deposits on the shell and heater. Although these deposits won't cause heater failure, they will cost increased energy use. The heater element is directly exposed to the water and transfers heat to the water as it passes over the element. If the element becomes coated with minerals, the heat transfer is greatly reduced and causes the heater to run for longer and longer cycles. We often replace heaters which have become ineffective due to heavy deposits of calcium, iron and other minerals. In general, four ounces of the product should be added at fill-up. Thereafter, two ounces per week should be added for maintenance. In cases of well water with heavy mineral content, an initial dose of up to twelve ounces can be added. After adding the stain inhibitor, run the filtration pump for at least one hour before balancing the pH and adding sanitizers or shock. This will allow the stain inhibitor to sequester the minerals and prevent the sanitizers from oxidizing them and causing discoloration of the water and heavy water lines on the shell.

  Why Saratoga Spas?

 For those who have not heard, we have changed brands from Sundance Spas to Saratoga Spas.  We will continue to be your regional service provider for Sundance Spas and Jacuzzi Brands.  However, going forward, we will be offering the complete line of Saratoga Spas in our Hadley, MA store.  Saratoga Spas are made in the Northeast in upstate New York.  The company has a firm grasp of the conditions that a hot tub is exposed to in this climate.  They make some of the industry's most efficient and durable spas available.  We are able to offer these units at very reasonable prices partly due to proximity.  Shipping a spa across the country costs alot of money.  We have had a relationship with Saratoga Spas that dates back to 2001 on the repair side and are very familiar with their products and performance.  The staff at Saratoga Spas has always impressed us with their product knowledge and their understanding of the industry.  As the industry has changed, Saratoga Spas has diversified its offerings to adapt to these changes.  Saratoga Spas was established in 1984 and holds a multitude of patents for parts designed in-house by their engineering staff.  To summarize, Saratoga Spas is a regional manufacturer with a long history of dependability, diversified products and price ranges, and the proper staff to assist its dealers in making the consumer happy.  Please stop by the store when you have a chance and see these fine hot tubs for yourself.